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Linen: Love and Hate

Linen has always been the subject of lively debate; the more traditional Gentlemen see it almost exclusively as a fabric for white towels, while the more spirited souls consider it a sublime summer fabric, judging its classic folds as “noble.”  

Precisely because of the ease with which it wrinkles and the difficulty of putting it back into shape, linen is rarely used in classic tailoring; traditional creators do not plan to adapt the line and wearability to the presence of folds. But if it is true that linen jackets and trousers get creased easily, it is equally valid that, after silk, linen is the longest natural fiber and, therefore, also the most resistant.

A linen suit is indeed a companion for life!

The Versatility of Linen

Linen is a light and breathable fabric, ideal when the thermometer often exceeds 30 degrees Celsius, but how do you wear and style it? The answer depends on the context and your personal style.

Opt for a linen suit with a shirt, tie, and moccasin if you want an elegant and formal look.

If, on the other hand, you prefer a more casual look, a broken linen dress combined with a T-shirt and a pair of sneakers is a perfect combination for informal occasions.

Regarding colors, linen fits well with neutral tones such as white, beige, and gray but also with more vibrant colors such as blue or green. Remember that linen tends to crease easily, but this is part of its rustic and informal charm!

Linen and Ceremonies

It is often known to advise against wearing linen in formal contexts such as weddings, but this is not always true. If the ceremony is held in more rural contexts, such as the sea or the countryside, linen can be evaluated both for the groom and the guests!

The linen dress is perfect for boho chic or rustic weddings thanks to its distinct and refined look. An example of a classic look could be the pinstriped suit by Lardini, 100% linen, combined with a white shirt, in this case, signed by Alessandro Gherardi, and a brown woven Barrett moccasin. An exquisite combination for a ceremony on an island like Pantelleria or in the Tuscan countryside in Val D’Orcia are perfect occasions for a linen suit.

Lino Contexts and Interpretations: The Style Guide

Certainly, elegance does not simply concern knowing how to combine a garment with the right accessory but represents a lifestyle. In that case, it is equally valid that the different contexts in which it is proposed are always decisive in choosing one’s outfit.

Let’s see how to combine the same linen suit in different ways to obtain new looks, formal and not, for other occasions and circumstances!

Tagliatore: two-piece suit with cream double-breasted blazer

A casual-chic total look perfect for taking part in the Mille Miglia, crossing the unique scenery of the most beautiful Italy aboard a vintage car. Tagliatore’s cream double-breasted suit is paired with a t-shirt, a navy blue Fioroni, and moccasins with a rubber sole to match the color of the shirt, all by Ortigni. .

This second version proposes a bohemian, undoubtedly joyful combination perfect for participating in Pitti Uomo this June. Here, we have an Alessandro Gherardi shirt with Carlo Riva fabric, singular by nature, accompanied by a regimental tie in shantung silk and the brown Cheaney moccasin.

Original ideas to combine suit separates
 

The peculiarity of combining pieces from different suits is that there can be a thousand different interpretations.

In the first case, we recommend pairing the double-breasted Tagliatore cream jacket with a patterned shirt by Tintoria Mattei, military green Berwich chinos, and Barrett suede moccasins for an aperitif look on the terrace.

In the second case, for the combination of the trousers, we suggest a Tagliatore blazer, single-breasted in linen and cotton, with a T-shirt and Ortigni sneakers, a perfect total look for dinner on the beach in a beach resort in Versilia.

Tagliatore: separate suit pieces with aquamarine double-breasted blazer

Are you on holiday in a hotel like the Fullerton in Singapore and want a drink by the pool? In this case, we advise you to opt for a brightly colored linen suit, accompanied by a polo shirt like the one by Lanificio Colombo, the world leader in producing noble fibers, and the suede Barrett moccasins.

If, on the other hand, you need an idea for your next formal outfit with personality, this total look is perfect for the hot days of July; try a white shirt, tie, and loafer, all to complete a splendid aquamarine double-breasted suit by Tagliatore.

Lardini: dove gray washed dress

Are you looking for a more relaxed outfit? Are you on holiday in an old farmhouse and want to dress casually without sacrificing good taste? In this case, we advise you to choose a washed suit, and therefore informal by nature, by Lardini, accompanied by a polo shirt without buttons like the one presented by Drumohr for Spring/Summer 23, and brown leather moccasins, the model in the photo Hudson by Cheaney.

Last but not least, a casual but gritty inspiration perfect for an aperitif at the Canottieri di Firenze during a breathtaking summer sunset. With a view of Ponte Vecchio, in an open-air museum city, we suggest a simple look, starring the Lardini turtledove dress accompanied by a polo shirt with personality by Drumohr and the double buckle moccasin with rubber sole by Ortigni.

Which Type of Linen?

Once you have seen the different interpretations of the same linen suit, we must review the different types of linen.

Among the best we find:

  • Irish linen (300/400 gr), which is more used traditionally for men’s clothing especially in Italy.
  • Fantasia linen (200/300 gr), often works with a shantung-type effect or in combination with silk and other fibers but is used above all for making blazers.
  • Levantine linen (270 gr) uses a rather traditional weaving, commonly considered the gabardine of linen, softer than canvas and lighter than Batavia and is used for the creation of suits.
  • Finally the Italian linen (300 gr) used for both jackets and trousers, along with summer suits. Compared to Irish linen, Italian linen is characterized by a less regular weave and the thread is thinner. It is often yarn-dyed, an operation which allows for more delicate shades to be obtained compared to Irish linen which is usually piece-dyed. The fabric is lighter and softer and therefore more suitable for summer wear than Irish linen even though it wrinkles more easily.

In conclusion, linen is genuinely an excellent adventure companion during the hot summer season, thanks to its incomparable sheen, the comfort of the fitting, and its transpiring and absorbent properties. A thousand interpretations of style and contexts in which to wear it! The choice remains only yours: do you love or hate linen?

Come and discover our selection of linen suits for the new season in our Florence boutique!

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